High vs. Low Porosity Hair: How to Tell Which One You Have (and What to Do!)

Ever wonder why some hair seems to drink up moisture while other hair stays dry, no matter what you do? Understanding your hair’s porosity – or how well it absorbs and holds moisture – is the first step in creating a hair care routine that works for you.

Hair porosity is more than just an industry buzzword; it’s an essential part of knowing how to keep your hair looking and feeling its best. High, low, or medium porosity levels affect how your hair absorbs products, reacts to humidity, and even how it holds a style.

In this guide, we’ll dive into what high and low porosity hair really means, how to identify your hair’s porosity type, and, most importantly, how to care for it.

What Is Hair Porosity?

Hair porosity refers to your hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture. Think of it as how open or closed each hair strand is to taking in moisture from products or the environment. Your hair’s porosity level affects which products work best, how often you may need deep conditioning, and even how humidity will impact your hair.

Types of Hair Porosity

• Low Porosity Hair: The cuticle layer of the hair is tightly closed, making it difficult for moisture and products to penetrate. Low porosity hair may look shiny and healthy but can be prone to product buildup since it doesn’t easily absorb moisture.
• High Porosity Hair: On the opposite end, high porosity hair has a more open cuticle layer, which means it can absorb moisture quickly. However, this also means it loses moisture just as fast. High porosity hair may feel dry or frizzy because it struggles to retain moisture.

Research suggests that environmental factors, hair styling habits, and genetics all influence porosity. However, chemical treatments like coloring, relaxing, and bleaching can make hair more porous over time.

How to Test Your Hair Porosity at Home

If you’re unsure about your hair’s porosity, don’t worry – you can do a quick test at home. Here’s a simple way to find out your hair porosity level.

1. The Water Test

The water test is a popular method because it’s easy and generally accurate. Here’s how to do it:

1. Take a clean strand of hair (no product buildup, so ideally washed and air-dried).
2. Fill a glass with room-temperature water and place the strand in it.
3. Wait a few minutes and observe where the strand goes:
   • Floats on top: You have low porosity hair.
   • Sinks to the bottom: Your hair is high porosity.
   • Stays in the middle: You have medium porosity hair.

2. The Slip and Slide Test

An alternative way to check porosity involves feeling for resistance along the strand:

1. Take a dry strand of hair and slide your fingers from the tip to the root.
2. If it feels smooth, you’re likely low porosity; if it feels rough or bumpy, you’re likely high porosity.

Daily Tip
Test your hair’s porosity every few months, especially after using chemicals like dyes or heat treatments, as these can impact your hair’s porosity.

Low Porosity Hair: Tips for Moisturizing and Hydration

Low porosity hair is known for having a tightly closed cuticle layer. While this helps it look shiny and smooth, it can be resistant to absorbing moisture and products, often leading to dryness and product buildup. If you find yourself wondering why products “sit” on top of your hair instead of being absorbed, you might have low porosity hair.

Common Characteristics of Low Porosity Hair

• Feels smooth to the touch
• Takes longer to dry
• Easily prone to product buildup
• Water or product tends to bead on the surface rather than absorb

Care Tips for Low Porosity Hair

1. Use Light, Water-Based Products
   Heavy creams and oils can create buildup on low porosity hair. Instead, look for lightweight, water-based products with humectants like glycerin or aloe vera that can help pull in moisture without sitting on the surface.
2. Clarify Regularly
   Low porosity hair often experiences product buildup, so using a clarifying shampoo once or twice a month helps to remove residues and primes the hair for moisture. Be sure to follow up with a lightweight conditioner to avoid stripping your hair completely.
3. Apply Heat When Conditioning
   Using heat to lift the cuticle layer slightly can improve moisture penetration. You can try deep conditioning with a heat cap or simply apply conditioner in a warm, steamy shower. This allows the conditioner to penetrate better, leaving your hair soft and hydrated.
4. Limit Protein Treatments
   Low porosity hair can be sensitive to proteins, which may make hair feel stiff or dry. Stick to moisturizing treatments and use protein sparingly unless you notice your hair is unusually weak or fragile.

Low porosity hair may be less prone to frizz in humid environments due to its closed cuticle layer, making it somewhat more manageable in wet climates.

Daily Tip
Incorporate warm water when rinsing conditioners to help open up the cuticle, allowing the product to penetrate better.

High Porosity Hair: Characteristics and Care Tips

High porosity hair has a more open cuticle layer, which makes it quick to absorb moisture but also quick to lose it. This type of hair can appear frizzy, dry, or damaged, often due to external factors like excessive heat, coloring, or harsh chemical treatments.

Common Characteristics of High Porosity Hair

• Dries quickly and absorbs products fast
• Prone to frizz, especially in humidity
• Often feels rough or textured due to an open cuticle
• Loses moisture easily, leading to dryness and breakage

Care Tips for High Porosity Hair

1. Moisturize, Moisturize, Moisturize!
   High porosity hair needs constant hydration. Use rich conditioners and deep moisturizing masks that nourish and seal the cuticle. Ingredients like shea butter, avocado oil, and argan oil can be particularly beneficial.
2. Layer with the LOC or LCO Method
   The LOC (Leave-in, Oil, Cream) or LCO (Leave-in, Cream, Oil) methods are popular techniques for locking moisture into high porosity hair. This method involves applying a leave-in conditioner followed by an oil and cream (or vice versa), creating a moisture barrier that keeps hydration locked in.
3. Reduce Heat and Chemical Exposure
   High porosity hair is often the result of damage. Avoid frequent use of hot tools, and if you do use them, make sure to apply a heat protectant. The same goes for chemical treatments – give your hair plenty of recovery time between any coloring or relaxing sessions.
4. Try Protein Treatments for Strength
   High porosity hair benefits from protein treatments because they can help strengthen and temporarily fill in gaps in the hair shaft. Look for protein-rich masks with ingredients like hydrolyzed keratin or wheat protein to restore elasticity.

Daily Tip
Try a weekly moisturizing mask or deep conditioner to give your high porosity hair the hydration it needs. This could make a noticeable difference in softness and manageability!

Ingredients to Look For Based on Porosity

Choosing products that align with your hair’s porosity can maximize their effectiveness. Here’s what to look for (and what to avoid) based on porosity.

For Low Porosity Hair:

• Look For: Humectants like glycerin, honey, and aloe vera, as well as lightweight moisturizers.
• Avoid: Heavy oils or butter like castor oil or shea butter, which can cause buildup.

For High Porosity Hair

• Look For: Protein-rich ingredients (hydrolyzed keratin, silk protein), rich oils like coconut oil and shea butter for sealing.
• Avoid: Light, thin products that don’t provide enough moisture or coverage for your porous strands.

Protecting Hair from Heat and Styling Stress

Both high and low porosity hair can benefit from careful heat styling and protection, as exposure to high temperatures and frequent styling can worsen issues like moisture loss and damage. Here are some ways to protect your hair regardless of porosity.

• Use a Heat Protectant: Always apply a heat protectant before styling with hot tools. This is particularly important for high porosity hair, which is already prone to moisture loss.
• Choose Low Heat Settings: High temperatures can quickly damage both high and low porosity hair. Experiment with lower settings on your blow dryer or flat iron to see if you can achieve the same results without the extra stress.
• Avoid Over-Styling: High porosity hair is especially vulnerable to breakage, so try limiting your use of high-manipulation styles like tight braids or twists.

Seasonal Hair Care Tips

Porosity also influences how your hair reacts to seasonal changes. Here’s how to adjust your routine based on the season for best results:

Winter Care

• Low Porosity Hair: Winter’s dry air can make hair feel brittle. Try deep conditioning more frequently to maintain moisture.
• High Porosity Hair: Use thicker creams and oils to seal in moisture against the dry winter air, and wear protective styles to guard against breakage.

Summer Care

• Low Porosity Hair: Humidity can make low porosity hair feel greasy, so consider lightening up on heavy conditioners. A leave-in spray may work best.
• High Porosity Hair: Protect your hair from sun exposure with hats, leave-in conditioners, and extra hydration to combat dryness and frizz.

Common Questions About Hair Porosity

Can Hair Porosity Change?

Yes, hair porosity can change over time due to aging, environmental factors, or repeated exposure to heat styling and chemical treatments like coloring or relaxing. If your hair suddenly starts behaving differently (such as becoming frizzier, drier, or more difficult to manage), it might be worth retesting your porosity to see if it has shifted.

Is Medium Porosity the “Ideal”?

Many people view medium porosity as the "ideal" because it tends to have a balanced cuticle layer that absorbs and retains moisture well. However, it’s not necessarily better than high or low porosity—each type has its own strengths and challenges. The key is learning to work with your hair’s unique needs and finding a routine that supports it.

Conclusion

Understanding your hair’s porosity can be a game-changer in your hair care journey. Whether you’re dealing with low or high porosity, knowing how to treat your hair will help you achieve healthier, more resilient locks that look and feel great. Embrace your unique hair type, and with a few adjustments, you can have a routine that’s as unique as you are. Here’s to happy, hydrated hair days!